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Still have a gap on each side to fill in.
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I decided that while I had the roof in the shop I would go ahead and prime it for painting later. I did final sanding with 320 grit sandpaper and then primed it with AlexSeal primer. The primer was thinned with the proper thinner and applied with the proper roller as per the AlexSeal directions. They claim that the roller texture would not show, but when I finished applying the primer, the rough roller texture was obvious. I was quite disappointed, but when I returned an hour later it had miraculously disappeared! Hurray! I am now optimistic and encouraged that the AlexSeal product will provide a good final paint finish for the boat exterior.
Done. Well, except for sanding and fairing. The new sections consist of two layers of 1708 with additional layers at the edges and corners. Note that while the roof section of this hightop is 4" higher like the factory high top, it is longer than the factory hightop, meaning the front angle is a steeper pitch. My reason for adding a hightop is to provide a place to store 30" x 64" thin flex solar panels, and the ceiling space in a standard factory high top is too short to allow this.
Masonite forms in place for laying up the corner gaps.
Still have a gap on each side to fill in.
Front section has been laid up.
I used 1/8" smooth masonite to make a curved form section to close the front of the roof.
I built a wooden cradle to hold the roof off my work table so I could work on it without distorting the roof's shape.
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Still have a gap on each side to fill in.

  • Media owner pcg
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Still have a gap on each side to fill in.
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High top roof
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I decided the best course of action for converting to a high top was to remove the roof and then do the modifications in my heated shop. Removal took about two minutes with a recipro saw with carbide blade.
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