Check list on buying a C Dory:
C Dories are simple boats with simple systems and are well built. Generally a boat which has been used, will have had any problems repaired.
But here is where I start.
Look at the gel coat: Is it chaulky--and if so, bring along a little rubbing compound and see if you can restore it. The dark colors fade and are harder to restore. Look for repairs or missmatched gel coat.
Look for dings and scratches, especially which go thru the gel coat, exposing glass fibers. Look for wear patterns on the keel or bow, where the boat has been hit aginst a trailer frame or beached.
Look for stress cracks or crazing. Many are superficial, but if you can get a knife blade into the crack, it may be more of a problem.
Most hulls are ok, but it is best to tap with a phenolic hammer on the inside and outside of the bottom. You are looking for a dull thud, rather than a crips ring when tapping. The thud suggests core water intrustion or delamination.
Look around the dept sounder transducer, any holes in the transom and trim tabs for any water intrustion. (the holes should have been sealed with epxoy before rebedding, but many boats didn't have this done, and it needs to be done now. Check the drain plug.
Put the outboard up to the trailer position. Put your full weight on the lower leg and see if the transom flexes. If so, it is suspect.
Look for cracks around the splash well, especially in the 25's--2002 thru 2005 vintage. Cracks just aft of the cabin on the gunnel are common and rarely a problem, same with the corners of the cockpit. Look at any scuppers.
Look around any screws into the bottom of the boat in the cocpit for water intrustion (tank hold down or plastic trims hold down). Look at the brass strip foreward and see if any leakage around it. Look at the anchor well, and look to see if the bottom is well sealed.
Look for cracks around the bottom of the V Berth and under the portipotty, also water in this area. Look for stains of water coming down form the rub rails. Most C Dories have the hull to deck joint glassed over, and it is very strong, but look at it for pulling away of the rub rail or intrustion of metal into the inside.
The Wallas stove, should start prompty. Check water and bilge pumps. Look at water hoses for both a screen filter, and to see if any discoloration. Look at the way that the furniture (Decaboard or plywood) is held to the hull and if any separation. Same for the V Berth tabbing and andy tabbing of the aft cabin to the cockpit or cabin house.
Check all insturments for operation, Check all light bulbs, all systems (bilge pumps, water pumps, head etc).
Check conddition of upholustry. Look at camper back covers for chafe, for fit and finish, for seams where the thread has let go. Look at the clean vinly to be sure that it is clean and not crazed or hazzy. Check the windows and windshiled for leaks. Be sure the wipers work. Check all instruments.oth
Take the boat for a ride. It should not purpose (ride up and down, in smooth water--that suggests a hook in the bottom from improper storage.
See at what speed it planes, how level it runs, what the Wide open throttle RPM is and how easy the boat gets on a plane.
If a 4 stroke engine do an oil analysis. Both the engine and lower unit. Do compression and leak down checks. Be sure that oiling systems on older Evinrudes and Johnsons work properly. Be sure that early Hondas start easily.
Check battery voltage, both at rest, with lights on, and with engine running. Check wire terminals for proper fusing and proper covers to avoid arcing. look for corrosion. Be sure that there is no significant voltage drop between the battery and the console.
Check the foam for mildew, for spring and comfort. Look for dampness and mildew on the sides of the hull, lines and fenders.
Check the anchor, anchor chain, rode and roller. If a Windlass does it work> Is it properly fused? Have the seller demonistrate how every system on the boat works.
Check the steering, the wheel should move easily and the boat should track without any pull to any one direction. The boat should steer easily without undue heel. There may be a slight list, depending on where gear is stowed. Be sure that all deck cleats, and eyes are secure, and they should be thru bolted and backed with backing plates or at least fender washers.
That's enough off the top of my head right now. Maybe I'll think of something else.
Bob Austin
